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How do you remove the crossmember on a MG?

How do you remove the crossmember on a MG?

Remove the 4 large crossmember nuts (28) from the top with an impact wrench (inside engine bay on top of frame rails). [Note that there are nuts on both sides of the crossmember, with a threaded rod between them as you can see in the diagram below; if the nuts are rusty, it may help to let some of the crossmember weight hang on the rods.

How to replace a crossmember or subframe?

The subframe (or crossmember) is quite large, there are a number of parts to remove and I’m working in a small 200 sq.ft. garage in the middle of winter. Surprisingly, it was quite straight forward and logical. Just take your time, label everything and you’ll be successful! (B)Choosing the best oil filter: Wix XP / Amsoil / Royal Purple..

What kind of wrench do I need to remove front crossmember?

A spritz of spray paint on the threads – allow time for it to dry – is helpful in case you have to move them back more. A 3/4″ (IIRC) open-end wrench and large vice grips are all you should need to remove the T/R (wrench for the tie rod, vice grips for the shaft).

Are there nuts on both sides of the crossmember?

[Note that there are nuts on both sides of the crossmember, with a threaded rod between them as you can see in the diagram below; if the nuts are rusty, it may help to let some of the crossmember weight hang on the rods. If you don’t use an impact wrench, the opposite nut may spin.

How do you remove a crossmember from a car?

Repeat on the other side. Now that’s all done, disconnect the steering rack and brake lines from the crossmember. Support the crossmember with a floor jack in the center. Remove the 4 large crossmember nuts (28) from the top with an impact wrench (inside engine bay on top of frame rails).

How to remove the MGB front crossmember and suspension?

How to remove the MGB front suspension and crossmember is a common question on the MG Experience forums. I pulled mine last weekend, here are the steps I followed: Put jack stands under the castle rails and floor jack under the spring pan on the side you’re starting. Remove tie rod end from steering arm – may be easier said than done.

The subframe (or crossmember) is quite large, there are a number of parts to remove and I’m working in a small 200 sq.ft. garage in the middle of winter. Surprisingly, it was quite straight forward and logical. Just take your time, label everything and you’ll be successful! (B)Choosing the best oil filter: Wix XP / Amsoil / Royal Purple..

A spritz of spray paint on the threads – allow time for it to dry – is helpful in case you have to move them back more. A 3/4″ (IIRC) open-end wrench and large vice grips are all you should need to remove the T/R (wrench for the tie rod, vice grips for the shaft).

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Ruth Doyle